Mooshkies!
It all started with a challenge on IRC. Could a not-thoroughly-gross cookie be made with mushrooms in it? Taking an existing oatmeal cookie recipe as a base and assuming that sweet must be replaced with savory, I was able to concoct a reasonably edible thing that resembles a cookie and has mushrooms in it:

Click "read more" below for details.
Introduction
Cookies are, at their core, usually the following ingredients:
- Flour. Something has to form the structure to hold the bubbles formed by the:
- Baking powder (or soda). Add water and heat and you get bubbles held in place by the flour and the:
- Eggs. Which add both additional proteins and emulsifiers to the equation, but all that water has to be held in check by:
- Sugar. Which is both sweet and hydroscopic (it grabs some of the excess water). All this is pointless, however, unless we have a:
- Payload. Sugar is sometimes payload enough, but usually there's raisins, other grains (oats, e.g.), chocolate, or some other payload.
In order to make a savory cookie instead of a sweet one, the big challenge is to figure out how to duplicate sugar's unique qualities without being sweet. Those properties?
- Hydroscopic. We'll have to suck excess moisture out of the cookie batter somehow.
- Abrasive. Sugar crystals rip into the various egg proteins as it's being whisked (and forming a solution with) the wet ingredients. Extra beating will be required if we don't use it.
- Caramelizable. Add enough heat to sugar and it caramelizes, and caramel eventually cools to help form the crispy bottom. I forgot about this one in the initial formulation...
Ingredients
A typical oatmeal-raisin cookie has quite a bit of grain in it, and holds a payload that's about chopped mushroom size. I figured that was a good place to start. The ingredients, side-by-side with the original, are:
| Original | Mooshkie | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4c butter | 3/4c butter | No point changing this one. |
| 1 1/4c AP flour | 1 1/4c AP flour | Ditto |
| 1 tsp baking powder | 1 tsp baking powder | The Ph should not change significantly between the recipes. Leave it the same. |
| 2 eggs | 2 eggs | Seems about right, too |
| 1/2 tsp salt | 1/2 tsp salt | No reason to change this one, either. |
| 1 tsp vanilla extract 3/4 tsp ground cinnamon |
1/2 tsp pepper 1/4 tsp curry powder |
Our first major divergence. No reason for the curry power except that I like curry. It worked OK, really. |
| 1 1/2 c sugar (mix of brown and white) | 1 1/2 c finely grated Asagio cheese | The way I see it, hard cheeses like Parmesan, Romano and Asagio are fairly hydroscopic (indeed, too much so, it turns out). They also play well with mushrooms and can form a nice emulsion with all the emulsifiers in the egg. Asagio I chose in particular because grated Asagio (and NOT parm or romano) needs an anti-caking agent to keep it from, er, caking. And we're making a cake (of sorts) here, so I figured it'd be a good move. |
| 2 3/4 c rolled oats | 2 1/2 c barley, par-cooked in vegetable broth | I decided (fairly arbitrarily so, it turns out), to par-cook barley for this experiment, since barley and mushrooms often go well together. I didn't have quite 2 3/4 c, it turns out. |
| 1 c raisins | 1 c chopped mushrooms | Raisins have much less moisture than mushrooms, which gave me serious concerns about the overall water balance. Turns out it wasn't a big deal. |
| Nothing else | 1 c milk | I added the milk in 1/4 c installments when it became obvious that the batter was too dry. |
Procedure
A typical cookie procedure is to simply combine the dry ingredients (sugar is considered a wet ingredient for this process) in one bowl. Then the wet in a separate bowl (whisked vigorously until the sugar is fully dissolved), then mix the two together. With muffins or biscuits, you'd fold the ingredients. With cookies, it's not so important--mix away.
This process diverged a bit because of the immense amount of cheese and the extra mixing of the wetworks because of the lack of sugar. I started with the truly wet ingredients (except the milk, which was an afterthought), whisking vigorously with a metal whisk to really beat the eggs. I then added the cheese, continuing to beat the heck out of it and form a partial emulsion (the cheese wouldn't dissolve, but it would break up into small bits and egg was definitely sticking to it. The barley was semi-wet, so it came next. Then the dry goods (which had been whisked together in a separate bowl). Chopped mushrooms entered the party dead last.
When the batter came together, the flour wasn't integrating as it should (not enough moisture), so I slowly added milk until the consistency hit something reasonable. At this point, the batter smelled like a baking pizza--quite nice.
I then dished out rounds onto a waxpaper-covered cookie sheet, 8 per batch, in two batches. I then put a little grated cheddar on top and a sliced mushroom in the middle of each. Then into a 375 F (190 C) oven for 12 minutes and on to a cooling rig (cooling rack over aluminum foil).
Results
The final cookies looked like this:

They were reasonably tasty (reminded me of quiche filling), but had the following problems:
- Not crispy enough. I hadn't taken the caramelizability of sugar into account, so the cookies ended up a bit on the not-quite-hard-enough side. Normal cookies, if you grab them from a corner, will hold straight--mine drooped a bit.
- Too much cheese. I never though I'd say that, but damn.
- Barley's just not the right texture. And it's a bit of a pain in the ass to make as a prerequisite to making cookies.
- Expensive. $5 worth of Asagio for 16 cookies?
On the positive side, I do believe that tasty mushroom cookies are possible and I came reasonably close to it on the first try (good taste, wrong texture). Next go I'll make only a half-batch, use less cheese (and use probably Cheddar or Jack instead), a bit less baking powder (more crisp, less chew) and try it with instant rice instead of barley. The rice should be nicely hydroscopic, should brown a bit, should beat the egg proteins up a bit and make for a much better texture.
Further, the extra cheese and mushroom on top was a REALLY good move...

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